The road from La Paz to Chacaltaya climbs through the Altiplano and up the Cordillera Real to a parking area at approximately 5,200m where the old ski lodge ruins (the world's highest ski resort until the glacier disappeared in 2009) sit. From the parking area, a marked trail winds up the rocky slope to the summit at 5,421m — approximately 30–40 minutes at a very slow altitude pace. The views expand with every step: La Paz below, Huayna Potosí (6,088m) towering to the north, and the disappeared Chacaltaya glacier as a white scar below the summit.
Chacaltaya's glacier was the oldest glacier ski resort in the world — ski records here date back to 1939. Scientists began monitoring the glacier's retreat in the 1980s. By 2009, the glacier had completely disappeared — 18 years ahead of the most pessimistic scientific projections. The Chacaltaya glacier became the first glacier in the world confirmed lost to climate change, documented by Bolivian scientists Edson Ramírez and colleagues from UMSA La Paz. Today the bare rock where the glacier stood is one of the most visceral climate change testimonials in South America.
The Club Andino Boliviano established the first ski infrastructure at Chacaltaya in 1939, making it the world's highest ski resort at the time (and the highest glacier ski resort until its closure). At its peak in the 1970s–80s, Chacaltaya had a rope tow, a small cabin, and attracted skiers from across South America. The 1998–99 El Niño severely damaged the glacier; by the 2000s, skiing was only possible a few weeks per year. The resort closed permanently when the glacier disappeared in 2009. The ruins of the old ski cabin are still visible at 5,200m.
Chacaltaya (5,421m) is 1,780m above La Paz (3,640m). The altitude difference can cause acute mountain sickness even in people acclimatized to La Paz. Symptoms: severe headache, nausea, confusion, serious breathing difficulty. If you experience these symptoms at the summit, descend immediately. Minimum days in La Paz before going: 2–3 days. Constant hydration from the day before. No alcohol in the 24h prior. Bring coca tea or altitude sickness pills.
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