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Chulumani y Sud Yungas Bolivia — valles subtropicales con plantaciones de coca y bosque nublado
— Sud Yungas · Coca · Communities · La Paz1.700m

Chulumani
& the Sud Yungas.

The most authentic Yungas: fewer tourists, more local life. Coca and citrus plantations. Sunday rural markets. Afro-Bolivian communities. 3.5h from La Paz without taking the Death Road.

What to do ↓See Coroico →Gallery ↓
Altitude
1,700m
From La Paz
3.5h · south road
Climate
Subtropical warm
Crops
Coca · citrus · avocado
Market
Sunday · main plaza
Tourism
Not overcrowded
— Coca, history and market

The Yungas that has always worked this way.

Four centuries of coca, community and market. Uninterrupted.

~500–1100 AD
Tiwanaku and the first coca economy
The Tiwanaku civilization, based on the altiplano at 3,800m, was the first to systematically exploit the Yungas for coca. The Sud Yungas valleys (1,200–2,000m) were the main source of sacred leaf for the Tiwanaku Empire. The road network connecting the altiplano to the Yungas — precursor to the Taquesi Trail — was developed by Tiwanaku centuries before the Incas.
16th–18th c.
Enslaved Africans on the Yungas plantations
Enslaved Africans brought to work Potosí's silver mines (4,090m) were relocated to the Yungas when their bodies could not cope with altitude. The coca and sugar plantations of the Sud Yungas became their settlement zone. This is the direct origin of today's Afro-Bolivian communities of Tocaña, Mururata and Dorado Chico.
1988
Law 1008 and the legal coca zone
Bolivia's 1988 Law 1008 designated the Yungas (Nor and Sud) as the country's only legal coca production zone — the "zona tradicional." The Chapare (Cochabamba) is a different and more disputed zone. The Sud Yungas coca is the sacred leaf consumed throughout Bolivia for altitude, ritual and daily use. Chulumani is the capital of this economy.
2006–today
The road that didn't arrive — and why it matters
When Bolivia opened the new paved road to Coroico in 2006, the Nor Yungas exploded with tourism. The Sud Yungas branch road — to Chulumani — remained partly unpaved. The result: while Coroico became Bolivia's most-visited weekend escape, Chulumani stayed a working market town. No Death Road. No tourist buses. The Sunday market runs as it always has.

Chulumani never needed the Death Road to find its rhythm. While Coroico filled with cyclists, the Sunday market kept running as it always had — farmers, coca, citrus, community. The Yungas that isn\'t in the guidebooks has been running for centuries.

— Things to do in Chulumani & the Sud Yungas

The Yungas that isn\'t in the guidebooks.

Coca, communities, rural markets and citrus straight from the farm. The real Yungas.

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Plaza principal · 7am–1pm

Sunday Market

Most authentic rural market in the Yungas

The Chulumani Sunday market is the social and commercial heart of the Sud Yungas — farmers from the surrounding valleys descend to sell coca, tropical fruits (maracuyá, chirimoya, papaya, avocados), vegetables and artisan goods. Unlike the more tourist-oriented markets of Coroico, Chulumani's market is a working market for local families. The coca-weighing at the morning opening (7–9am) is one of the most distinctive scenes in Bolivian rural life.

Tip
Arrive at 7am for the coca opening. The best tropical fruit prices are in the first 2 hours (farmers carry limited quantities and pack up early). The market wraps up by 1pm — plan to have lunch at one of the market-adjacent restaurants serving traditional Yungas food (trucha frita, chicken stew, chicha).
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Throughout the valleys

Coca Leaf Culture

The original coca — not cocaine

The Sud Yungas produces coca leaf (Erythroxylum coca) for traditional Bolivian consumption — chewing (acullico), teas and ritual use. This is the same plant but a distinct cultural product from the cocaine trade. Visiting working coca plantations (cocales) near Chulumani gives insight into the most economically important crop in Bolivia's lowland culture. Local farmers can explain the distinction between traditional coca use and illicit production, and the political economy of coca in Bolivia.

Tip
Do not attempt to pick coca or photograph farmers at work without explicit permission. Coca leaves are legal to chew and carry in Bolivia — customs rules apply for international travel. In Chulumani's market you can buy small quantities of dried coca leaf (~5–10 Bs per small bag) for traditional use or as a cultural souvenir.
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Surrounding valleys · 1–4h

Valley Trails & Waterfalls

Subtropical gorges and waterfalls with no tourist crowds

The Sud Yungas around Chulumani has extensive hiking trail networks connecting farming communities through subtropical gorges, bamboo forests and roadside waterfalls. The Río Solacama gorge (45 min from town) has natural swimming holes. The Puente Colorado trail (2h loop) follows the historic colonial road between Yanacachi and Chulumani through citrus and avocado groves. Unlike Coroico, these trails have no tourist infrastructure — you walk through working agricultural land.

Tip
Hire a local guide in Chulumani's plaza for valley trails — they know which private farms allow passage and which trails are in best condition. Cost: ~$20–30 USD per day. Bring water, sun protection and some Spanish — English is much rarer here than in Coroico.
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Yanacachi · 1h from Chulumani

Taquesi Trail Connection

End (or start) of the great Inca trail

Yanacachi (2,150m), the finishing point of the Taquesi Inca Trail, is 1h from Chulumani by road. This makes Chulumani the natural base for trekkers finishing the Taquesi from the north (Chojlla) — arriving in Yanacachi and continuing to Chulumani for rest, food and a proper guesthouse. It is also possible to start the Taquesi in reverse from Yanacachi heading uphill toward the Mina pass (4,630m).

Tip
If ending the Taquesi in Yanacachi, a shared taxi to Chulumani takes 1h (~15–20 Bs per person). From Chulumani, direct buses run to La Paz (3.5h). Combining the Taquesi (2 days) with 2 nights in Chulumani is an excellent Sud Yungas circuit with no repetition of roads.
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Valley roads near Chulumani

Citrus & Avocado Farms

Buy direct from the farmers at origin

The valleys below Chulumani produce exceptional citrus (naranja, limón mandarina), avocados, maracuyá, chirimoya and cacao at altitudes between 1,200 and 1,700m. Roadside stalls run by farming families sell at prices that are 70–80% cheaper than in La Paz. Several farms near Chulumani accept informal visits — the Finca Miravalles (15 min from town) offers orange juice pressing and cacao pod harvesting demonstrations outside dry season.

Tip
The citrus harvest is April–July (peak oranges and mandarins). Avocados are year-round but peak August–October. Maracuyá (passion fruit) peaks January–March. The roadside price for a bag of 20 mandarins in season is ~3–5 Bs — approximately $0.50 USD. Buy large quantities and pack them carefully for La Paz — the altitude kills their ripeness within days at 3,600m.
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Tocaña via Nor Yungas route · 2–3h

Afro-Bolivian Culture Access

History and music of Bolivia's African heritage

The Afro-Bolivian communities of Tocaña, Mururata and Dorado Chico are accessed both from Coroico (Nor Yungas) and via a longer route through the Sud Yungas valleys. Chulumani is the cultural centre closest to the Afro-Bolivian historical trajectory — the coca and sugar plantations that were worked by enslaved Africans in the 16th–18th centuries are in the valleys between Chulumani and Coroico. The Museo Afroboliviano in Coroico contextualises the history that is lived in the Chulumani valleys.

Tip
The most direct Tocaña access remains from Coroico side (1h from Coroico). From Chulumani, the cultural circuit — visiting the plantation-era sites in the Sud Yungas valleys and then going up to Tocaña — requires a full day with a guide. Contact Love Bolivia for the complete cultural circuit connecting both Yungas.
FAQ

Questions about Chulumani.

Plan your trip →

Chulumani is the capital of the Sud Yungas province of La Paz department, at 1,700m altitude and 3.5 hours from La Paz by road. It is less visited than Coroico (Nor Yungas) and more authentically local — its Sunday market, coca plantations, citrus farms and connections to Afro-Bolivian communities make it the most culturally rich Yungas destination for travellers wanting to avoid the tourist circuit.

Coroico (Nor Yungas) is Bolivia's most popular mountain escape, with established tourism infrastructure, the Death Road finish line, multiple hotels with pools, and Afro-Bolivian communities on its doorstep. Chulumani (Sud Yungas) is quieter, more local, with a working market, no death road connection, fewer foreign tourists, and a deeper agricultural character (coca, citrus). Coroico is easier and more comfortable; Chulumani is more authentic and less travelled.

Yes — coca leaf is legal throughout Bolivia for traditional use: chewing (acullico), coca tea (mate de coca), and ritual purposes. It is a legally cultivated crop in designated zones including the Yungas. Buying, carrying and consuming coca leaf within Bolivia is entirely legal. International travel with coca leaves is subject to destination-country laws — most countries prohibit import regardless of legal status in Bolivia.

Year-round destination. The Sunday market is the main event — plan your Chulumani visit around a Sunday. May–October (dry season) gives the best trail and valley road conditions. The citrus harvest (April–July) coincides with the dry season — the combination of ripe citrus at roadside prices and dry sunny weather makes this the best period. November–April brings afternoon rains but lush green valleys and active waterfalls.

Bus from La Paz (Villa Fátima terminal): 3–3.5h · departures 5–8am · ~20–25 Bs. Shared taxi: ~60–80 Bs per person, faster and more direct. Private vehicle: ~$50–70 USD from La Paz. Route: La Paz → Unduavi → Sud Yungas branch → Chulumani. The Sud Yungas road is partly paved and partly gravel — dry season (May–Oct) is recommended for the gravel sections. No direct flight to Chulumani — all access is by road from La Paz.

The Chulumani Sunday market (open from 6am to noon) sells: coca leaf by the pound from Aymara producers, fresh citrus (mandarin, orange, grapefruit), avocado, plantain, tropical fruits not found in La Paz markets, handwoven textiles from nearby communities, local cheese, singani and chicha. The market is primarily a wholesale and community market — arriving early (6–7am) gives you access to the best produce before it sells out. Prices are significantly lower than La Paz for all fresh produce.

— Travel logistics

Getting there, staying and settling in.

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How to get to Chulumani

  • Bus from La Paz (Villa Fátima terminal): 3–3.5h · departures 5–8am · ~20–25 Bs.
  • Shared taxi: ~60–80 Bs per person · faster and more direct than the bus.
  • Private vehicle: ~$50–70 USD from La Paz · road partly paved, partly gravel.
  • Route: La Paz → Unduavi → Sud Yungas branch road → Chulumani. Gravel sections on the Sud Yungas road.
  • Dry season (May–Oct): recommended for the gravel sections of the road.
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Accommodation and what to combine

  • Hostals on Chulumani main plaza: 80–150 Bs/night. Hotel Prefectural: only one with pool and valley views.
  • Combine with: Tocaña Afro-Bolivian community (20km) and the Taquesi Trail (1 day).
  • Classic itinerary: Friday evening from La Paz → Sunday market → Tocaña Monday → return.
  • 4x4 rental recommended for exploring the Sud Yungas valley beyond Chulumani.
  • Citrus harvest (April–July): the best time to combine market, fresh fruit and sunshine.
— The authentic Yungas awaits

Sunday market.
Freshly harvested coca.

We design your Sud Yungas itinerary — Chulumani, Taquesi, communities and the Sunday market.

$90 · €85 · Bs. 623

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