The Beni plains flood every year between November and April. The Moxos civilisation didn't flee these floods — it exploited them. For over 2,000 years, they built a hydraulic system of a scale that can only be appreciated from the air: 10,000+ structures that make Bolivia's lowlands the largest pre-Columbian engineering project on the continent.
The modern discovery of the geoglyphs was gradual: serious first reports came in the 1960s when flights over the Beni began revealing geometric patterns. It was in the 1990s and 2000s, with satellite remote sensing and systematic studies by researchers like Clark Erickson and John Walker, that the true extent of the Moxos civilisation became apparent.
This history changes the way we see Amazonia. What for centuries was considered 'virgin' and 'inhospitable' jungle turns out to be a landscape deeply transformed by humans — not through deforestation, but through engineering that improved the ecosystem and soil productivity for millennia.
The problem: the Beni plains flood every year. The solution: four types of hydraulic engineering built at landscape scale.
Artificial earthen platforms on which entire communities lived, keeping them safely above the annual floodwaters. The largest lomas are impressive in scale — some are as large as a football pitch and as tall as a four-storey building. Each represents centuries of accumulated construction. Some still support forest island vegetation distinct from the surrounding savanna.
At ground level, the earthworks look like simple hills. From the air, one of the most complex engineering systems of the ancient world is revealed. Three ways to visit.
The perspective that changes everything. A 15–30 minute flight in a light aircraft from Trinidad airport reveals the scale and geometric perfection of causeways, mounds and fish ponds impossible to grasp at ground level. The plane flies low — the patterns are clearly visible even in dry season. Price: ~$80–120 USD/person in a shared charter.
Walking on and around the lomas with an archaeologist guide from Trinidad. Allows you to see the real scale of the mounds (which look like natural hills), the differentiated vegetation growing on the earthworks, and understand the hydraulic system in its geographic context. You need a 4×4 to reach the most representative sites (10–60km from Trinidad).
Between January and April, when the plains are flooded, it is possible to boat through the channels between raised fields and causeways. Seeing causeways emerging from the water — exactly as designed 2,000 years ago — is one of the most striking heritage experiences in Bolivia. Local guide and appropriate boat required.
Boliviana de Aviación and Amaszonas operate 1-hour direct flights from Santa Cruz Viru Viru (VVI) to Trinidad (TDD). Price: ~$80–120 USD one way. The fastest and most reliable option. From Trinidad, earthwork sites are 10–60km by road.
Direct 1.5-hour flight from El Alto Airport (LPB) to Trinidad. Boliviana de Aviación operates the route. Price: ~$100–140 USD. The option for travellers arriving from La Paz without connecting through Santa Cruz.
The Santa Cruz–Trinidad road takes 12–18 hours (partly unpaved). Price: $10–15 USD. The route crosses the Beni and can be cut in wet season (November–April). Not recommended except for travellers with extensive time who want to see the Beni landscape overland.
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